2008 Newsletter Archive
Here are the weekly Newsletters from 2008 written by Jim Murrant and Ann Reynolds for The Boating Bible Manual of Seamanship.
2008 Newsletter index
What people are saying about our Newsletter
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Festive season and your chance to comment - 16 Dec 08
1. The festive season
Last Sunday we attended the Christmas Breakfast at our yacht club. As usual it brought together over 100 members, their families and friends.
It was most enjoyable sitting, sheltered from the big sou'wester, sipping bubbly and filling up on a plateful of eggs, bacon, sausages, baked beans, train smash and toast. (Don't tell my doctor!) For those of you who may not know, train smash is a combination of crushed tinned tomatoes and onions.
For the more health conscious, there were platters full of fresh summer fruits. Christmas cake and coffee rounded off the meal for those who were so inclined. And, despite the wind, the bbq didn't smoke everyone out!
2. Have you ever visited our Blog?
It's at: http://www.theboatingbible.com/OurBlog. We post twice a week, on subjects ranging from recent yachting events to good sailing practice as well as news items that we found interesting and wanted to share. The underlying theme of our Blog is keeping safe at sea.
Remember, you are welcome to comment on the posts and share your thoughts with our readers.
3. Away for Christmas
For many years Christmas was a day to take things easy and not overindulge as on Boxing Day we'd be competing in the Sydney-Hobart yacht race. This year we'll be watching the start from Young, some 100 km from the sea as the crow flies.
It is, however, where Annie first sailed - on a large privately owned dam, in a Mirror dinghy owned by Spike Ross.
So, the festive season is really upon us and we will take a break next week. But we'll be back the week after, i.e. prior to New Year.
Until then...
We wish you a safe and happy Christmas
Jim and Ann
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Your Christmas Special - 10 Dec 08
This newsletter contained a special offer available only to subscribers. We will be re-sending it before it expires on
31 December 2008. If you would like to know what it is, please complete the form above to sign up as a subscriber!
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Dealing with a broken shroud - 2 Dec 08
In the series of newsletters we've just had on What would you do if? we covered situations which gave a skipper time to decide on his or her response.
But what about situations where you don't have a lot of time to consider your options. You need to react quickly, if not instantly. A good example is if you lose a cap shroud:
1. Initial response when a shroud breaks
If you're on the wind, and that's when it's most likely to happen, tack immediately unless you're going to put the boat in danger. But don't forget you're in danger on the old tack with a broken shroud. You must take the pressure off the mast as quickly as you can.
2. How Mike Clements dealt with a broken shroud
Before building Rager II (launched 1987, now Pale Ale Rager, entrant in this year's Hobart), Mike owned and raced Rager I, a Cole 43, for many years.
During a Sydney-Hobart race, while crossing Bass Strait, a cap shroud parted. Mike immediately put Rager I on the other tack.
He then found out what the failure was and decided what he could do. My memory tells me, he had a completely operative turnbuckle and a short length of stainless steel wire to the break. He cut a calculated length from his second anchor chain. He was able to attach one end to the existing turnbuckle and used bulldog clips to attach the other to the remaining part of the cap shroud. Because he still had the turnbuckle he was able to apply tension to the repair.
The repairs completed, Rager I sailed on to finish the race. I read about this in a report on the race and decided that he was a skipper I wanted to sail with, which I later did.
3. Seamanship lessons learnt
a) Mike saved his mast by reacting quickly.
b) He made sure he used chain from his second anchor, not his main one.
c) He had the tools (bolt cutters to cut the chain) and spares (bulldog clips) he needed on board to effect a successful repair.
Whether skipper or crew you need to reassure yourself that the boat you are sailing on is well prepared for whatever situations you may face.
In Skipper & Crew, Knots and The Language of the Sea we have detailed checklists of tools and spare parts for just about any type of boat and repair you can think of.
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What it takes to be a good skipper - 25 Nov 08
Over the last five weeks we've looked at situations that may
occur while sailing and suggested several ways each should be
handled. The skipper's ability to foresee problems will
hopefully enable them to be avoided or at worst mitigated.
If you want to be known for your seamanship, here are some
more helpful tips:
1. What if the wind strengthens to storm force?
During a recent Saturday afternoon race on Sydney harbour one
yacht sank when a southerly came through. The other yachts
coped with the conditions and avoided getting into
difficulties.
What was the difference? The first yacht failed to put in the storm boards. It had a large companionway and when the boat was flattened by an extra strong gust, the water rushed into the cockpit and then straight down below. It only took two minutes to sink. Luckily it was brought back to the surface intact. In fact, even the winch handle was still in the pocket!
2. What if the engine stops or can't be started
The key thing here is not to try to start the engine if oil has been increasing without any being added. Should you do so, there is a high risk of explosion.
3. What if the steering fails?
It is possible to steer a yacht just using its sails. You won't be able to sail close to the wind, probably between 70 and 140 degrees will be the best you can make. We have included detailed instructions of how to do this in Boat Handling 1 under the section, 'Sail by trim alone', now available on CD.
4. What if the main halyard jams?
In one Sydney-Hobart we were unable to take a reef because of a halyard jam. It forced us to keep more sail up than we really wanted. Fortunately the crew were able to handle the boat conservatively by spilling some of the wind and taking a less than efficient course which was much safer. The result was that we came 3rd in our division.
5. What if the boat goes aground?
In this case the single most important thing is to know the state of the tide. Racing skippers would almost always know when high and low tides occur so that they can make best use of tidal flow. The cruising skipper may not be so careful. The seamanlike skipper would make a point of checking the tide as part of gathering the weather forecast prior to setting out.
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In next week's newsletter we discuss 'Dealing with a broken shroud'.
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What if the boat goes aground? - 18 Nov 08
This is the fifth and final What if scenario where we share our experiences of going aground. It can happen just as easily in your home port as when you're travelling abroad and, as skipper, you really need to know what to do.
1. Get off the way you went on
The first time I ran aground was the first time I sailed in the ocean - the North Sea , in fact.
It was just after WWII and I was a schoolboy Sea Scout, sailing out of Burnham-on-Crouch in the UK on what memory tells me was a ketch of about 30 feet.
As we were clearing the sandbanks in the river's estuary we scraped our way over the top of one of them. What happened next has remained with me all my life.
The owner, who was at the helm, turned the boat and sailed back into the channel as closely as he could along the path he had taken just before.
As he explained later he knew he had to act quickly and try to get off the way he had got on.
2. State of the tide
Why all the hurry? Imagine if instead of scraping over, you are stuck. Worse still, it is a falling tide. Worst of all, it is the highest tide of the cycle. Unless you can reverse off under engine, or somebody can tow you off, you might be there for a very long time and your boat will be in danger of severe damage, even loss.
So what should you do? It is critical to find out the state of the tide as that will dictate what you can do, and when.
3. Use the motor and a kedge
In the case of most groundings the best thing is to use the motor. First try to reduce the boat's draft by forcing it to heel. The simplest way to do this is to shift crew weight, even to put some of them on the main boom and swing it outboard.
Then try to reverse off. If that doesn't work, row a kedge anchor out from the stern in the direction you want to go and try again with the motor and winching the kedge in. If that still doesn't work, and you are on a rising tide (lucky you) wait until you've got, say, another foot of water and try again. You will almost certainly succeed.
4. Avoid the temptation to push her off
It is very dangerous to get off and try to push the boat even if you are very, very careful. A sailor I know ran aground on a reef in Sydney Harbour. He was sailing alone and the boat was lightly stuck by the bow. He got out to push it off and the boat rose to the wake of a passing ferry or ship, then came down and crushed him - fatally.
5. An extreme example of reducing the boat's draft
I remember an occasion when we lost track of time in a port in southern Tasmania and the tide ran out. When we got back to the boat we were sailing, a 42 footer, it was tied up to the jetty, stranded. Fortunately there was just enough water to pull her out.
We pulled her sideways from bow and stern - two crew members on lines at each end - and had the yacht with whom we were cruising in company tow her very gently by the masthead. This held her broadside across the stream and minimised the depth needed to free her. It was lucky for us it was such a gently sloping bottom. And that we had enough crew to make it work, so the number of crew you have at your disposal can be critical.
6. What else?
As you can see, we have quite a lot of experience in going aground. If you have some ideas about the above scenario that we haven't covered and would like to share them, please contact us and, if appropriate, we will publish and acknowledge them.
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Next week we will round off this series by revisiting our initial topic:
What it takes to be a good skipper.
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What if the main halyard jams? - 11 Nov 08
The fourth in our series of five What ifs. Today we will look at what you need to do if the main halyard jams.
Generally, a halyard jam will happen when you want to take a reef so an awareness of this may encourage you to reef early before conditions worsen. In the right conditions you will need to send someone up the mast. What are the right conditions? I have seen an old friend of mine, then in his late 50s, up a mast in Bass Strait in 40-50 knots - hardly the right conditions, but he was a gutsy and experienced sailor.
Here are some steps to follow:
1. Brief the mast climber
Make sure you brief them carefully about what to expect as they climb up and down as they are likely to be tossed around against the mast, spreaders and mainsail. You will also need to tell them what to do to free the halyard when they reach the masthead as it's going to be difficult communicating in poor conditions.
2. Tools needed
When sitting in a marina tools can be sent up to the masthead in a bucket attached to a spare halyard but this system won't work at sea as it will endanger the crew on deck. The climber should tie a shifter and a Leatherman or similar multi-tool with a line to their belt to prevent the tools from being dropped.
3. Preparing the bosun's chair
For the safety of all concerned but particularly of the climber, two halyards should be attached to the chair.
4. Back on deck
When the climber gets back on deck, they should be encouraged to rest and keep warm. They will have expended lots of energy during the climb and received a surge of adrenalin. As skipper, you should be aware that they may be suffering shock.
5. What else?
If you have some ideas about the above scenario that we haven't covered and would like to share them, please contact us and, if appropriate, we will publish and acknowledge them.
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Next week we will discuss the following scenario:
What if... the boat goes aground?
Think about how you would handle that situation. Play it through in your mind. If you rehearse it, it will help you deal with it.
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What if the steering fails? - 4 Nov 08
Here is the third in our series of five What ifs.
What if the steering fails.
1. First. Prevention is better than cure
Nobody should go to sea without an adequate and easily rigged emergency steering mechanism. If you've got a wheel, you should have a spare cable - fitted to size so as to go around the quadrant - which can be put in place in minutes. If you've got a tiller, you must have a fitting on top of the steering post to accept it which again can be fitted in minutes, or less.
2. If you've lost the rudder, your problem is bigger.
In many well-run ocean races it is a requirement for all entrants to have a prefabricated emergency steering mechanism. These have to be demonstrated to race officials on the start boat fully installed over the stern.
All cruising boats should carry a prefabricated emergency rudder - not an emergency tiller, but a replacement if the rudder breaks. Racing yachts carry U-bolts and their associated nuts, with a board - usually one of the removable boards which cover water tanks or lockers in the main cabin - which can be quickly made up into a quite effective steering device. The board makes a steering 'blade' which is attached to a spinnaker pole or similar.
3. How to repair or replace the steering cable
Once the jury rig is in place there is a tendency to think, 'OK, that's well done, now we'll press on,' and no more permanent repair is attempted. Don't neglect the basic fault. Very often, a competent crew in flippers, weights and goggles, can go over the side and effect repairs. More usually, with wheel steering, it is the system of wires and pulleys that fails. Whether you are cruising or racing, it doesn't take much room to have ready, cut to the right length, and swaged, a complete replacement. Usually when the steering has gone it is because the boat has been under some pressure and conditions were bad. Having a complete replacement gives you plenty of time to make up or repair the broken part, which can then act as the spare for the future.
4. How to rig the emergency rudder
The normal jury rudder consists of the spinnaker pole, two U-bolts, and a board or locker top or door which has holes drilled in it so that the parts can be assembled very quickly. In an emergency the board is attached to the pole with the two U-bolts, which bolt up tight. Then the new rudder is lashed over the pushpit using a square lashing, which will allow movement of the jury rudder.
Some cruising boats weld or otherwise attach eyes to the rudder and lead lines from them into the boat so that in the event of the steering column failing they can make tackles that will provide them with emergency steering.
5. What else?
If you have some ideas about the above scenario that we haven't covered and would like to share them, please contact us and, if appropriate, we will publish and acknowledge them.
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What if the engine stops or can't be started? - 28 Oct 08
Here is the second in our series of five What ifs...
What if the engine stops or can't be started.
After we discuss several solutions, we will suggest what the
seamanlike skipper can do to ensure the safety of the crew
and yacht.
1. Diesel engines
The most likely cause of a diesel engine not starting is that
it has air in the fuel. You will have to bleed the system.
Everybody should know how to do this! In any case, you should
have on board the manual for your yacht's engine.
If the engine still won't start, there may be something wrong
with the injectors.
2. Petrol engines
The problem here is most certainly going to be the electrics.
Don't despair. If you have an outboard on your dinghy you can
use it to propel your yacht.
What you do is tie the dinghy securely alongside with plenty of
fenders between the two vessels. The outboard will work fairly
hard but will propel both and will also steer for both. As a
result, it only requires one person, driving the dinghy. This
method is less stressful in terms of engine strain than towing.
3. Check the batteries
You should also check the batteries to see if they are flat,
although this should never be allowed to happen. Ocean going
yachts should have one battery dedicated to the engine and
then whatever is needed for the house supply.
4. Manage your resources
Power must be kept available for communications and receiving
weather forecasts so, if the engine still won't start, you
need to minimise your power usage as follows:
* Rig and use emergency navigation lights which are battery powered.
* Turn off all lights. Crew can use their personal torches to see their way around below and when necessary on deck.
* If you have refrigeration, it must be switched off to save power. You should avoid opening the door all the time, getting milk for tea and coffee. Put today's supplies in a portable ice chest or cooler.
5. Alternative sources of power
Cruising yachts generally have several sources of power in
addition to their engines. We were able to maintain house
battery power with a wind generator while running two
refrigerators, one on 240 volt power, and keeping cell phones,
camcorders and digital cameras fully charged.
Solar panels are the other method, but may not be suitable
in all locations.
6. Too much oil!
There is an exception in the case of this what if... There is
one circumstance where you will not want the motor to start,
as there will be a strong chance that the motor could explode.
This is when the oil level is increasing.
It is essential to dip the oil every day so that you can
monitor the situation. If the level of oil is increasing, and
you have not put in extra yourself, it may well be because the
fuel pump is faulty and has allowed diesel to get into the
sump. This may never happen to you but if you don't monitor the
oil level you will never know that you are in danger.
7. What else?
If you have some ideas about the above scenario that we haven't covered and would like to share them, please contact us and, if appropriate, we will publish and acknowledge them.
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What if the wind strengthens to storm force? - 21 Oct 08
Last week we posed a series of What ifs. as ways of demonstrating good seamanship as a skipper. Today we will explore the first - what if the wind strengthens to storm force?
1. Weather forecast
Keep an eye on weather forecasts for several weeks before setting out. This will enable you to get a feel for how often and when changes in weather are happening. When at sea, getting the most detailed forecast you can will keep you updated on when the next front is expected to reach you.
2. Understand the terms used
A weather forecast won't have much value if you think that a Storm warning is not as severe as one for a Gale. This misconception arises because some people think of thunderstorms when they see or hear the word 'Storm'. They don't realise that a storm is sustained winds averaging 48 knots or more with violent sea conditions. A gale, on the other hand, is a wind averaging 34-47 knots. That said, you should remember that gusts can be 40% stronger.
In some parts of the world people believe that they can use the Beaufort Scale to estimate the wind strength and sea state. The only way to be sure of the wind strength is to have an accurate instrument to measure it. Any other method is subjective and therefore untrustworthy.
3. Shorten sail
It may be a rare occurrence that you are caught at sea in severe weather but you still need to be experienced in rigging the storm gear - storm jib and trysail. The former should have a strop attached to the tack so that it clears the foredeck, allowing waves to break beneath it. Its sheets should be fitted permanently. Do not, under any circumstances, attach the clew of the storm trysail to the boom. Drop the boom to the deck and lash it securely in place.
4. Lock the boat down
Put in the storm boards. Close the air vents. If necessary, protect the windows. Stow whatever you can securely below. During a two-handed race some years ago, the microwave on board the yacht came away and was bouncing around in the cabin. Before it could be secured, it punctured a pipe carrying hydraulic oil which then sprayed the cabin walls and floor, creating a dangerously slippery environment. At sea, one emergency can easily escalate into a greater one.
5. Assess your resources
You will need to determine who is capable of steering in these difficult conditions. Be aware that those who can normally steer for hour after hour, albeit with decreasing accuracy, will think they are strong enough to last for hours in bad seas. They simply cannot and must not be allowed to do so as this may put the safety of yacht and crew in jeopardy.
6. Make a roster
Based on your assessment of your crew, develop a roster of those who can steer and those who will be deckhands. As the latter are likely to be greater in number, they should also be given the task of preparing whatever hot drinks and food can be heated to sustain all on board.
7. Where should you head for?
The skipper must decide what course to steer and this will depend to some extent on where you are going and where the storm is coming from. The choices are:
* beating into the storm in the hope that you can sail through it, to calmer conditions, even if it means sailing at coarse angles to the wind;
* running or reaching at the risk of pitchpoling or being rolled.
In many cases it is more dangerous to head for port than to stay at sea, unless you are lucky enough to reach land before the storm hits.
8. Choose a survival method
If you decide to stay at sea the next thing you will have to do is select which method of survival you're going to adopt. Bare poles, lying ahull, sea anchor, trailing warps all have their adherents and if they work on your yacht they've been the right thing to do. But my own view is that every one of these methods reduces the manoeuvrability of the yacht. In some cases the yacht will assume a position which is unnatural and dangerous. Lying ahull or with a sea anchor presents the boat at roughly 70 degrees to the seas, much too close to a broaching position for my money. Running under bare poles can mean that the boat doesn't have power enough to present itself safely to the waves. Trailing warps can certainly slow the boat and reduce the danger of an end-for-end. But again its manoeuvrability is reduced.
9. What else?
If you have some ideas about the above scenario that we haven't covered and would like to share them, please contact us and, if appropriate, we will publish and acknowledge them.
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Want to be a good skipper? Be frightened - 14 Oct 08
It's not just the scouts who should "Be prepared!" Everyone who wants to be known for their seamanship should take this motto to heart.
One of the prime requirements of a good skipper is to know what seamanship is - a combination of knowledge and experience.
The way to do this is to constantly ask yourself "What if...?" and work out the answers. What do I mean by this?
What if...
* the wind strengthens to storm force?
* the engine stops or can't be started?
* the steering fails?
* the main halyard jams?
* the boat goes aground?
Would you know how to handle each situation? If not, think about it. Play it through in your mind. If you rehearse it, it will help you deal with it.
Talk to your crew, assuming you have recruited some who have wide experience. Don't be afraid to ask other skippers these questions. Consider how you could apply their answers to your particular boat.
Plenty of books have been written about safety at sea and how to cope with emergencies. In The Boating Bible Manual of Seamanship the information you will find is based not just on research but on personal experience, the best resource of all.
The next five newsletters will take these scenarios in sequence and offer some of the solutions of the many that could be imagined.
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